Creating a new product – from the conception of the idea right through to the moment it lands on the shelves – is never not exciting. But entering an entirely new genre of skincare? It’s all the more satisfying, which is why making The Impossible Tan™, our first ever organic tanning product, was a real passion project.
“This hybrid product follows in the footsteps of our bestselling glow drops – hence the name – to enter a new category, reimagining self tan for sensitive skin and nervous tanners alike,” says Sarah, Pai’s Founder.
Much like Pai itself, our tan drops were inspired by an all too common sensitive skin problem. “We understand that a significant portion of women – 69% to be exact – struggle to find sunless tanning products that don't cause irritation,” explains Danielle, Head of NPD. “Our formula is uniquely formulated for sensitive skin and dermatologist approved, ensuring a gentle, safe, and beautiful tan without the worry of adverse reactions.”
Stepping into uncharted territory as a brand that’s best known for cleansers and face oils was a chance for us to show what we’re really made of – and just what natural ingredients can do.
“We know many with sensitive or particularly dry skin struggle with self tan products. So we wanted to create a formula that both types of skin could use with absolute confidence,” adds Sarah.
“This latest release is no better example of how we use sophisticated green chemistry knowhow and technical skills to create 100% natural alternatives to products that are usually synthetically produced. All, of course, with zero compromise on performance.”
Formulating a flawless tan
While a sensitive skin-friendly formula was top of the wishlist, we wanted our sunless tan offering to do better, in every possible way. Because we’ve all had rocky experiences with self tan – from streaks and dry patches to irritation, breakouts, and that pungent biscuit aroma that follows you around for days.
“I’ve never had good outcomes to be honest,” admits Sarah. “I’d often find they would trigger my chronic urticaria, or leave streaks or darker patches round the ankles. Nothing too drastic, but we’ve all seen the Friends episode with Ross and his disastrous ‘mississippi’ counting in the spray tan booth!”
And so began our chemists’ mission to create a hybrid formula that delivered a natural-looking tan with skincare benefits – using actives usually reserved for serums and barrier-boosting moisturisers.
A hydrating hybrid
“We've innovated beyond typical self-tanners, which often contain drying alcohols, to create a formula that delivers a consistent tan regardless of season, and prioritises skin comfort,” explains John, our lead chemist and Head of R&D.
“Formulating without alcohol was a challenge; it’s a common ingredient used for reducing the drying time in tans,” adds John. “This was overcome with a specific blend of humectants to ensure relatively quick absorption, without drying the skin or causing discomfort.”
It took 12 iterations before the formula was finalised, but it was worth it. John and his team used a COSMOS-approved DHA – bioengineered from Glycerin – blended with DHB to create a healthy-looking tan without a hint of that telltale orange hue. Next, it was infused with skin-supporting ingredients. Hyaluronic Acid, Aloe Vera, Ceramide-rich Oat Extract and Prebiotic Inulin all made the cut. Giving our self tan a real point of difference, with hydrating, brightening benefits, for seamless integration into your daily routine.
Testing, trialling and learning
Less seamless, however, was the process of adding another skincare-colour hybrid into our in-house production facility. A caramel tint was added to the formula – to provide a guide during application – but of course the DHA develops a colour over time too.
“One of the challenges with this product was ensuring a safe procedure for handling active materials to prevent stains,” explains Kasia, Production Manager. “We had to implement strict protocols to minimise the risk of contamination and maintain a clean working environment.”
Equipment sorted, the big question was how it would perform on the skin. And while the results were positively glowing in both clinical and consumer trials, demonstrating them posed an entirely new dilemma.
“The most challenging part of capturing our campaign assets was testing how many drops would give us the desired effect for each model ahead of the shoot – and then making sure that they applied the drops accordingly, to be at their optimal glowy selves on shoot day,” recalls Head of Creative, Marine.
“We had originally hoped to create arm swatches that would show the buildable nature of the product and the ability to intensify your tan as desired, but quickly realised that it would be hard to capture this accurately on a very small patch of skin.”
A little goes a long way with these organic drops – and showcasing a completely customisable formula that takes time to develop wasn’t easy. Instead, Marine focused on finding the right models to communicate the message.
“We wanted to convey just how exciting this product is, and looked to create assets that would feel uplifting and energetic. This product is unique in how versatile and adaptable it is to any skin tone, so it was crucial that we chose models that could illustrate that. Lastly, we looked to create luminous shots that bring to life the idea of sunshine in a bottle!”
A lot of lessons were learned during this project – from understanding our customers’ gripes with self tan, to how to give helpful directions for a product that will vary depending on your unique skin tone.
Let’s just say there were a lot of patchwork-like arms and legs around the office as the team swatched and tested the sample formulas to compare results. And Sarah even had to cover up a tanning mishap before hosting live on QVC, having spilled some drops and forgotten to wash her hands (a key instruction on every bottle). But we got there in the end, and came to the conclusion that the real beauty of these drops is their versatility.
“I love it so much and am a total convert,” says Sarah, who used to avoid tanning her hypersensitive skin.
“Personally, I don’t apply it neat. My perfect way to apply is to blend it into my Back To Life™ serum. I mix four drops of self tan into one pump of serum for a few consecutive days to gradually build up the colour. And I’m particularly excited about the timing of the launch as we emerge from winter hibernation looking for a warmer skin tone and glow!”
Discover more and shop The Impossible Tan™ Hydrating Self Tan Drops here
